The Gallura, Sardinia —

My Goodness. Was it just yesterday that I was sitting in traffic, raging in Sartene? Indeed it was and today has been a stark and comforting reminder that things can also go well. This morning we made our first foray into the Sardinian countryside and from that first kilometer forward we basically just lucked out.

Looking at the map, Donna noticed a large lake not too far inland. In Sardinia, life in July revolves around the sea so we decided to see what was up lakeside. At the Lago di Liscia there was not a soul it sight. Deep breath. Nice.

A fellow at the café back in Sant’ Antonio di Gallura told us to be sure and check out the Olivastri Millenari. What we find at the end of a short dirt road above the lake is the most pleasant surprise of our journey so far. There, in a parched field, stands an olive tree which began to grow in 2,100 BC. The simplicity of this natural wonder left us speechless. Standing alone in the dense shade at its base, your mind cannot help but wander over the vast history this living being has witnessed. The thick and deeply gnarled roots just reek of wisdom. Deep breath. Nice.

The Olivastri’s guardian is a helpful park official named Robbi. He is enthusiastic in recounting his journey to the Pont du Gard in Provence to study other stately olive groves. When we describe our interest in walking, he lights right up. He loves to spend his evenings mountain biking all over the area and has a few suggestions for possible walks (they prove to pan out beautifully.) We also inquire about any special lodgings nearby. “Sure, just down the road, new 4-Star, local chef, rooms decorated by local artisans, panoramic views of the lake.”

Wow, one stop tour organization in the shade of a 4,100 year-old olive tree. We’re going to have to take Robbi out to dinner.

Photo Below: The growth of 2009 on the Olivastri Millenari