Chiavenna, Italy –

Our garden is about three kilometers from Chiavenna proper.  We reside in the leafy ‘burbs, far away from the pleasant bustle of the town center.  It is a gem of a town, situated on the Mera River at the base of the Spluga and Malojia mountain passes and it is easy to miss.  When driving through, you have about a three second window to catch a glimpse of the old town hanging above the river, otherwise all you’re going to see is a 1950’s hotel, a gas station and a few rows of condominiums dating back to the 70’s.  It is pretty uninspiring fare but Chiavenna is worth the a stop.

We are about 40 kilometers north of Bellagio at the heart of the Italian Lake District and an equal distance south from St. Moritz in the Engadine.  We get a lot of people passing through, Milanese rushing north to ski, Swiss and Germans flocking south like geese searching the warmth of the lakes.  Happily, most tourists overlook us.

The town has had significance since Roman Times.  Up until the 20th Century, it was part of the major trade route between Italy and Northern Europe and it thrived.  The modern tunnels of  Switzerland bypass us now and it is a lot quieter but the town still retains an elegant, lived in feel.  Town palaces from a variety of centuries dot the city center and once main street was closed to traffic, the quality of life improved greatly.

It is very nice to head into town in the late afternoon to do the shopping.  Butcher, baker, produce shop and the lush cheese counter at the market; it is a procession and it usually culminates at one of the cafes in the main square where friends come together after the errands are done.

As I said, Chiavenna is a gem.  Next time you are passing through, stop and join us.