Seven days, Six nights
Gargonza, Bagno Vignoni
Day One – Arrival in Gargonza; Castello di Gargonza
Our home for the first three nights is the Castello di Gargonza, which lies in the densely wooded hills 35 miles south of Florence, overlooking the Val di Chiana. The castle and its surrounding village have been in the possession of the Guiccardini family since the 1600s. Up until the late 1930s this tiny village thrived with a population of nearly 400 residents. In the wake of World War II, there was a mass exodus to the industrial regions in the north, leaving the town and castle deserted by the early 1960s. Count Roberto Guiccardini and his family then began a meticulous restoration of the property and today it offers the unique opportunity to step back in time and live as noble families did in centuries past.
Upon your arrival, you will be met by the Count’s son, Neri and shown to your suite within the village walls. This evening at 6:30, we will gather in the residence gardens where you will come together with your fellow travelers and hear of the adventures to come in the week ahead before our welcome dinner in our hotel’s fine restaurant.
Day Two – Calcione and Lucignano; Castello di Gargonza
This morning, we set off on foot through the lush woods surrounding Gargonza. These woods give way to century old olive groves and vineyards as we enter the estate of Calcione where we are welcomed by Count Bernardo Pianetta della Stufa. The castle of Calcione has been in existence since the 10th century. Bernardo opens his home to us and paints a rich picture of the life of Italian nobility from the time of the Medici to the present day.
After our visit, we continue through the estate to the gates of Lucignano, one of Italy’s first examples of medieval urban design. The village was designed and built in the 1200s as a series of concentric circles with daily life emanating from the lovely cathedral on the hill at city center. Unlike more frequented tourist destinations, Lucignano retains a bustling daily life that emphasizes the vibrancy of modern day Italy. Here we will enjoy a lunch of the area’s specialties such as wild boar, grilled vegetables, pecorino cheese and truffles in a local trattoria.
Tonight we venture out of our village walls to a local trattoria with a large wood-burning grill where meats or pizzas are expertly but simply prepared.
Day Three – The Crete Senese and Asciano; Castello di Gargonza
From our verdant surroundings in Gargonza, we venture a few miles to the west today and into the eerie environment of the Crete Senese. This is one of Tuscany’s most primal landscapes. These bleached hills of clay and Jura limestone have eroded over the centuries to form a unique skyline, alternating between gently rounded hills and jagged cliffs. Our walk this morning begins at the pinnacle of the Crete and winds slowly down into its depths and the sleepy village of Asciano. The farming community of Asciano is one of Tuscany’s oldest and most consistent. The arid soil led early on to a specialization in poor grains and beans. In turn, the inhabitants of the Crete Senese have subsisted on one of Tuscany’s healthiest diets. Using spices sparingly, the dishes that reach the table in Asciano emphasize the simple earthly flavors of the surroundings.
Back in Gargonza this evening, our host will take us on a historical tour of the village before a special, private dinner in the castle’s oldest and most elegant dining room. Gargonza’s kitchen opens its doors to us as we enjoy and participate in a detailed pasta-making demonstration before our dinner, complimented of course by Tuscany’s best vintages. Served family-style, platter after platter will tempt all of our senses.
Day Four – Monte Oliveto and Bagno Vignoni; Hotel Adler Thermae
The highlight of our days in the Crete Senese is certainly our visit to the Abbey of Monte Oliveto Maggiore, founded by a group of Sienese merchants in 1313. This impressive medieval monument looms above us like a lighthouse during our morning walk. The current abbey was built in the 15th century. To this day, the monks of the Oliveto order live, pray and work on the premises and the Great Cloister beside the church has a lovely fresco series depicting the life of St. Benedict by the painter Sodoma. Lunch in a local enoteca takes on a more modern flare with dishes such as lemon ravioli and zucchini carpacio. Afterwards we have plenty of time to explore all of the Abbey’s secrets before arrival at our new home, the wonderfully lovely and serene, Hotel Adler Thermae.
Day Five – The Val d’Orcia; Hotel Adler Thermae
Bagno Vignoni lies nestled amidst the volcanic hills at the heart of the Val d’Orica. Leaving directly from the hotel this morning, we wander among the many farms that dot the area. These farms give way to arid and isolated canyons where some of the fiercest partisan fighting took place in World War II. Following the Orcia river, we return to Bagno Vignoni and enjoy lunch on the shaded terrace of a bustling trattoria, where Osso Bucco and spaghetti and meatballs are a speciality. This afternoon, we will explore the original Roman baths and milling complex of town before returning to the Adler Thermae.
Back in Bagno Vignoni, there is time to enjoy tranquility in the gardens, a dip in the pool or a massage before dinner in the village center. Steak Fiorentine, homemade Pici pasta (large hand rolled spaghetti) and Tiramisu are just a few of our tantalizing choices.
Day Five – Montalcino and the Vineyards of Brunello; Hotel Adler Thermae
This morning, we journey westward to the hilltop village of Montalcino, which is surrounded by some of the richest vineyard country in Italy. It is here that the San Giovesi grape is aged to perfection to create the famous Super Tuscan wines, such as the local Brunello, a rich, red and velvety delight. Our walk through these vineyards takes us to the historic Barbi winery, one of Montalcino’s oldest and most traditional. Barbi wines are crafted using a blend of state of the art technology and age-old Tuscan tradition. After an in-depth visit, we retire to the adjacent Fattoria di Barbi, for a festive lunch prepared with care in the kitchen of the winery itself.
Tonight, we have organized a special dinner, highlighting the unique variety of tastes and the finest wines that we have enjoyed throughout our week of exploration together.
Day Seven – Departure from Chiusi/Chianciano
This morning we transfer by private coach to Chiusi-Chianciano for our departure. Chiusi-Chianciano has excellent road and rail connections, south to Rome, north to Florence and Milan.
We Look Forward To Seeing You In Gargonza!
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